Take 2: it worked. Trick is to hold object in place and pull the wick the moment it’s done wicking. Yay. Now we have a motor with holes in tabs visible.
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Gonna use 22 awg solid core leads because that allows other bare end to snap neatly into breadboard holes. No need to crimp on a pin. Any time you can avoid crimping you should.
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First attempt bad. Hole still visible and lead is insecure. Added more globbiness to fill it.
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Other lead went easier. I’m using leaded all the way btw. No video of active work since I don’t have separate camera set up and am using phone.
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Snip excess lead wire and add a zip tie for strain relief (the leads broke because I was doing an experiment with sloppy workholding). So long as I don’t run the motor too hot it should be fine.
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Test passes
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Next up. Another motor repair job, tougher. Remember how in first soldering attempt I managed to rip the tab off? Gonna try salvaging that motor.
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Screwed up badly attempting to solder leads onto a motor. Ended up ripping the delicate copper lead off because I couldn’t quite figure out how to do it quickly with a light touch.
Setting this aside for now. This is advanced green belt stuff. I’m still yellow belt.
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The problem is: what’s left of the copper tab is under some plastic tab. My idea is to just use a solder blob itself as a tab and hope enough gets under plastic to form a connection.
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First attempt didn’t work. Plastic melted a bit and solder beaded up. It doesn’t bond to plastic maybe? No picture to show since only 2 hands.
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Generally no. I find it messy and not really needed… the solder is rosin core which seems good enough in most cases.

