In a noisy environment or when you wish to remain quiet, voice is much less useful than manual controls.
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When number of steps to use on-device controls is fewer than remote and/or quick, immediate interaction is needed (for example, in the kitchen where there's a good chance you have to use both hands for some task or they're covered in schmutz)
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When tactile-visual feedback gives some sort of satisfaction. For example, seeing that the stove is off and getting a satisfying 'click' when setting the knob to 'off'.
End of conversation
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I imagine it's a combination of familiarity (mom can show you the way her mom did, etc.), Non-digital controls (you'd have to redo controls for gas)
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