In fact I've already been travelling north for over 800 miles, since reaching my furthest point south at Port Charcot, Booth Island, Antarctica on January 13.https://twitter.com/threestationsq/status/1218293384734965760?s=19 …
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In fact I've already been travelling north for over 800 miles, since reaching my furthest point south at Port Charcot, Booth Island, Antarctica on January 13.https://twitter.com/threestationsq/status/1218293384734965760?s=19 …
My northward journey thus began with a zodiac ride back to the MV Ocean Endeavor, another day of Antarctic stops, and 2.5 days at sea sailing to Ushuaia.pic.twitter.com/ZufGt1rwoQ
*Today*'s journey begins with the 6am TAQSA departure from Ushuaia. Nicer seats than Greyhound though mediocre by Latin American standards.pic.twitter.com/mlf8TqfKh4
Crossing the Andes for what is expected to be the first of three times this trip.
Changing in Rio Grande to a "Pacheco" bus to Punta Arenas.pic.twitter.com/lZt2yLkXVK
I had been unable to confirm the existence or availability of this bus online, and everything between Tierra del Fuego and the mainland that I *could* find online (or asking the ticket offices in Ushuaia) was sold out until Tuesday, so I was preparing to fall back on hitchhiking.
But as it turned out this bus was boarding when I arrived in Rio Grande and was happy to sell me a ticket to Punta Arenas for immediate departure, so for today this remains a bus liveblog and not a hitchhiking liveblog.
This bus has an attendant who serves coffee and snacks! No power outlets though.
Everybody has to get off the bus to be stamped out of Argentina, back on to ride 13km to Chilean immigration, & off again there; crossing took about 90min total. I've had worse but would be pretty annoying if I were going to Rio Gallegos & had to do it all again in a few hours.
Have now pulled over a bit south of Cerro Sombrero. The engine is making unencouraging noises as the driver tries to restart it. The wind is blowing so strongly that the bus sways in place. But at least I have phone signal again.
Turned off the highway onto an unpaved gravel track, apparently in order to bypass Cerro Sombrero.
The bus rolls onto a ferry to cross the Strait of Magellan. Passenger disembarkation for the crossing seems to be optional but encouraged.pic.twitter.com/zlnK0AAxV9
Not the calmest of ferry crossings; I got splashed. (But it's no Drake Passage.)pic.twitter.com/M3afXn8eDK
Arrived in Punta Arenas, grabbed some food (had only had a bit of snack food today otherwise), and bought a ticket for my last bus of the day, to Puerto Natales.pic.twitter.com/9JmI8wpszS
Booked the last available hostelworld-bookable bed in Puerto Natales for tonight and I'll continue my journey tomorrow.
This road is signed "Ruta Fin del Mundo". It was weird enough in Ushuaia where everything was marketed as "end of the world" when I'd arrived there from the 'far' ("beyond the end") side, but weirder here when I've been traveling for a day but am still apparently at the "end".
The most interesting and scenic way north from here is doubtless the Navimag ferry, which carries passengers and freight between Puerto Natales and Puerto Montt. I took it in 2007 and definitely recommend it.pic.twitter.com/nuPJcYDeO3
But since I've been there and done that (and it doesn't fit my schedule this time), I'm instead starting this morning with a bus to Torres del Paine national park.pic.twitter.com/dM5jNZ1klf
(today's tweets will be a bit less "live" since I went almost 12 hours with no signal)
I don't have time on this trip for the multi-day hikes Torres del Paine is famous for, but having come so close (and having missed it in 2007) it seemed worth seeing what I could in a few hours there.pic.twitter.com/XSfqHWrc2O
On leaving park I didn't want to go all the way back south to Puerto Natales to catch a bus north to El Calafate (which would have to be the next morning), so I had the Torres del Paine-Pto Natales bus drop me at the tiny border town of Cerro Castillo, next to a pen full of cows.pic.twitter.com/P59duYrvYe
The driver had suggested I could connect to onward buses to Argentina there, but the border people said no regular buses passed that way (I guess they cross at Rio Turbio instead).
I considered walking the six miles across no-man's-land to the Argentine border post, but the wind was incredibly strong which seemed likely to make such a walk slow and unpleasant.
So (after grabbing some food) I began hitchhiking from the sheltered area just in front of the Chilean border post. (I had bought some nice A3 paper back in Ushuaia for making signs as needed.)pic.twitter.com/JhNusmcHag
This was certainly the lowest-traffic spot I've ever hitchhiked (and that includes some pretty remote places when I hitchhiked all the way from NYC to Alaska in 2013). Only two Argentina-bound cars arrived at the border post in half an hour of waiting.
But the second car contained a couple from Shenzhen who happily offered to take me all the way to El Calafate.
We got gas at a very abandoned-looking station at Tapi Aike where the driver declined my offer to pay a share.pic.twitter.com/bor6MiQwBY
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