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You read Teju Cole’s magnificent essay in the NYT Magazine? I had made a similar pilgrimage to see as many Caravaggios as I could find on the Italian mainland, but that essay made me want to do it all over again, and to see the paintings with the benefit of TC’s insight.
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I think the paintings in the French Church are my favorites of all. Before the age of mass tourism—which might be over now, mercifully—it wasn’t unusual to be utterly alone with those paintings, dropping coin after coin into the device that turned on the lights.
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