I found a great repair log for the Commodore 1351 that describes some things to test. http://www.monkeyspeak.com/1351/repair.html … #c64
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Continuity test on the cable checks OK. To test the IR LEDs I had to use an old iPhone (the new one blocks too much IR to be visible) and they are illuminated.pic.twitter.com/BDJFM0mUb1
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There are four phototransistors that receive the IR light through wheels with slots. Each also has a corresponding pull down resistor. Theory is the values of these are chosen at the factory to tune the output voltage. Time to get the scope out.
#c64pic.twitter.com/2ipdOpzJ7H
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Measuring the four outputs at the pull down resistors on the scope we can see the voltage changing as the wheels spin. All look good except R7 looks low. R6 and R7 are the X axis (L/R).
#c64pic.twitter.com/w1b77KGkEk
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I clipped out the 22k at R7 and used a resistor substitution box to find a replacement value. I settled on 56k. Retest on the scope and it looks much better.
#c64pic.twitter.com/4Gydvn7OVD
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So the
#c64 1351 mouse seems to work but mysteriously stops— then starts working again. For minutes at a time. I’m puzzled. Could it be a faulty controller (MOS5717)?Prikaži ovu nit
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Or you could just keep going right until it wraps around :-)
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My 1351 doesn't detect left/right. I had assumed because of 1 or 2 dimmer LEDs. Replacement looked too risky. This resistor method definitely is worth a try.
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Disregard my prior statement. One method of quadrature decoding would do exactly that.
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Čini se da učitavanje traje već neko vrijeme.
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