If you read books, read William Finnegan's Barbarian Days. It's one of those rare books that divide your life into two parts: before you read it, and after.https://www.amazon.com/Barbarian-Days-Surfing-William-Finnegan/dp/0143109391 …
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Do you surf?
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No. I have no idea what he's talking about half the time. But the book is so compelling I can't help being drawn in anyway.
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