Probably the best one ive read, so far.
If you read books, read William Finnegan's Barbarian Days. It's one of those rare books that divide your life into two parts: before you read it, and after.https://www.amazon.com/Barbarian-Days-Surfing-William-Finnegan/dp/0143109391 …
-
-
Thanks. Twitter will use this to make your timeline better. UndoUndo
-
-
-
One of my all time favs
Thanks. Twitter will use this to make your timeline better. UndoUndo
-
-
-
Another great surfer book - 'Da Bull - Life over the Edge' about big wave surfer Greg Noll. "If you want to know what it's like to be a big wave surfer, grab a board, paddle out, point your board down the face of a grinder and make a commitment. That's when you know the truth."
Thanks. Twitter will use this to make your timeline better. UndoUndo
-
-
-
This is, I think, exactly the book recommendation I need right now.
-
You will not regret it.
- Show replies
New conversation -
-
-
Ordered - thanks
Thanks. Twitter will use this to make your timeline better. UndoUndo
-
-
-
any other books that have divided your life into two parts?
-
I knew people would ask that, and the problem is that it would take an essay to answer. An essay I will definitely write. Meanwhile: My Family and Other Animals, The Conquest of Gaul, Franklin's autobiography.
- Show replies
New conversation -
-
-
bought this book last week, if anyone in Australasia wants to read it after me DM me
Thanks. Twitter will use this to make your timeline better. UndoUndo
-
-
-
If you've never surfed, try catching a wave :). It will literally divide your life into two parts. Before and after surfing. Fair warning you might leave
@ycombinator because it's that addictive. - End of conversation
New conversation -
Loading seems to be taking a while.
Twitter may be over capacity or experiencing a momentary hiccup. Try again or visit Twitter Status for more information.