If you read books, read William Finnegan's Barbarian Days. It's one of those rare books that divide your life into two parts: before you read it, and after.https://www.amazon.com/Barbarian-Days-Surfing-William-Finnegan/dp/0143109391 …
This is, I think, exactly the book recommendation I need right now.
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You will not regret it.
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It is a beautifully written, unforgettable book & is among my favorites in the nonfiction category. If I have a criticism it is only that some of the humility is lost in the last 20 pages or so.
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It’s fucking awesome
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Reminds me of Crazy for the Storm
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