Ground loop. Put some ferric chokes on the USB cable or invest in a ground loop isolator.
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Replying to @richardhedderly
My understanding is that a ground loop induces hum at the line frequency, not roughly the 1kHz "beeping" that is present in the WAV that I posted. Still, I just double-checked my setup. My router was on a different mains socket. Switched it to the same power bar. Same issue.
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Replying to @TheMogMiner @richardhedderly
there's this fun thing about USB being poorly designed and switching to and from an unbalanced state one every 1ms (hence 1kHz ground loop), and I came across this thread while searching for the one where I learned this, heh it's only a problem for D+/D-, so USB3 is unaffected
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🇪dith 🅱️inch Retweeted Hector Martin
can't find it but this is close enoughhttps://twitter.com/marcan42/status/1301373089658200064 …
🇪dith 🅱️inch added,
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Replying to @eddyb_r @richardhedderly
That's pretty funny actually. I'm familiar with Hector but somehow managed to completely miss this tweet of his. Thanks for the heads-up!
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If the Yeti is connected via USB and nothing else, then this is an internal fault or poor design. This stuff is nigh unavoidable when there is a loop, but for stand-alone USB peripherals it should not happen with good electrical design and filtering.
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Replying to @marcan42 @TheMogMiner and
If you have any other connections from the Yeti to other devices which are not completely stand-alone, then that is likely the problem (e.g. passive headphones plugged directly into a headphones out = OK, but a mains powered amp in between = bad).
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Replying to @marcan42 @TheMogMiner and
But yes, that is very much USB, so if the Yeti is picking that up alone, there is nothing you can do to fix it other than take it apart and improve the electronics.
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Replying to @marcan42 @TheMogMiner and
A better/beefier/shorter USB cable *may* help depending on how it's implemented and what the exact problem is.
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Replying to @marcan42 @TheMogMiner and
A powered hub near the Yeti with a good power supply and a shorter cable in that last hop, again, *may* help but this is workaround territory (assuming this is leaking in from power fluctuations); if the thing is designed properly this should not be necessary.
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But most powered hubs you can buy are terrible and backfeed power to the host and have horrible design themselves, so I can't recommend that route...
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