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Meanwhile, an upgraded 2015 Retina 27" iMac might become my main computing device (because a friend is getting rid of one), and if so, I've decided I'm sorting out the HDD temperature sensor nonsense, because apparently nobody has reversed that yet?
There's apparently *one* company that makes replacement stick-on thermal sensors (that I guess OWC and iFixit buy from), and they're charging $40 for an ATtiny. Just no. (There are also conflicting stories about how necessary this is, so I'll find out)
Why the iMac? Well after a CPU upgrade it should be a ~40% CPU perf boost over my current main laptop, which I'll keep as a side device anyway, plus NVMe storage, and I wanted a ~4K screen anyway, and I no longer consider my main box being a laptop a requirement.
My original plan was to wait until AMD laptops with USB4/TB come out, but that's taking forever, and this will be overall cheaper anyway. And hey, although I'll put Linux on it, having OSX be an option might come in handy.
The stock HDD has a special firmware that reports temperature as a variable resistance over the mystery pins at the back. iirc you can just solder together the two wires and the SMC will read 0c and the fan will not scream. iirc2 that is Apple's procedure w/ stock SATA SSD.
Coincidentally I flashed an apple-firmware HDD back to normal last year because I didn't trust Apple with providing updated firmware. Took fw from the DOS update ISO and: hdparm --yes-i-know-what-i-am-doing --please-destroy-my-drive --fwdownload PHCC494H.LOD /dev/sdX
kernal_task continually running. Taking resources
I looked into it awhile back, but never got very far because it turned out the entire machine was a lemon (fuck @GainSaverShop don't ever buy from therm, they're a scam hawking broken garbage). Looks like a one-wire interface embedded in the main drive controller.
(And by one-wire I just mean physically, I don't know if it's actually a one-wire digital signal or just a dumb analog voltage scale)
I‘ve upgraded my late 2015 Retina 27“ iMac and replaced the HDD with an SSD, didn’t use an additional sensor or cable and it works without the fan issues.
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