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I will mostly explain specular BRDFs, since they are most used. the most common way of making them, is by approximating the material surface as a bunch of small mirrors called microfacets.
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for very rough materials, these microfacets will have normals pointing in all kinds of directions(left image). For smooth materials, there is less normal variation(right image), and very smooth materials will closely resemble a flat mirror surface.
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people use use a formula called the Torrance Sparrow model(see image) for describing microfacet materials. It consists of three terms D(normal-distribution function NDF), G(geometric shadowing function), and F(fresnel function)
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The NDF(D), describes the distribution of the microfacet normals of the surface. If high roughness, then normals have great variation, and if low roughness, there is little variation.
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And people dont seem to create and derive their own NDFs anymore nowadays. They just try out the NDFs already out there, and pick the one that has an appearance that they like.
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The G function describes the geometric shadowing of the microfacets. some microfacets will occlude other microfacets, and cause shadows to be formed(black in image) in the microsurface, and G function models this phenomenon.
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Finally, F describes the Fresnel reflectance, which describes how more light is reflected from the surface, if you view at it from a grazing angle.
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The F function was originally derived from Maxwell's equations. See my old tweet
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The Fresnel equations, that for instance are applied in computer graphics, were ultimately derived from the Maxwell's equations. And I just found a document that derives the Fresnel equation's from Maxwell equations. interesting read👍👍 pdfs.semanticscholar.org/670a/784f74217
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to make your own BRDF with this model, you play around with different variations of choices of D, G, and F(from e.g. table 1), until you find one you like, and thats how most people seem to make their BRDFs nowadays.
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And then there are of course people who are researchers and are developing new BRDFs. I will list some miscellaneous links below on the topic of improving and making and choosing BRDFs:
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