Alex Hannold's podcast on the limits of human performance is insanely awesome: they start right out of the gate with a conversation about the maturity of training regimes in different sports — some are mature, and some are way behind.
Conversation
Replying to
"In marathon running (...) we're closer to the limits of human performance (but for rock climbing) I've only started training in a serious way this year — with an actual program and a coach (and) I've been a professional climber for 12 years."
1
2
I guess I'm not totally nuts when I say that maybe Judo has bad pedagogy — the sport simply isn't as professionalised as other sports, and there's a long way to go!
How exciting!
1
2
The other interesting — if obvious — thing is that the more a sport is closer to the limits of human performance, the more tech matters. Kipchoge broke the 2 hour marathon with Nike Vaporflys, and Hannold himself says the shoes he uses for free climbing are better every year.
2
Replying to
Based purely on the fact that the career of a gymnast appears to end already in their early 20s, the stakes to get good fast are much higher and I'd assume the training regime is more mature than in other sports.
1
1
1
1
Show replies

