How hip hop and graffiti artists in the 90s turned The North Face puffer jacket into a mainstream fashion icon
A brief history lesson 🧵
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clayton chambers
@claytonchambrs
Joined March 2017
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Hello friends ✌️I hope you have a wonderful week doing shit that makes you happy
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Kim rocking a vintage Roma kit.
More of what I expect we’ll see this year.
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4. Blokecore exits its Dirtbag era and becomes a fashion accessory for models and influencers.
I'm not particularly happy about this... but, you can't stop it.
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Stüssy is a once-in-a-generation brand.
Been around for 40yrs and relevant as ever.
Imagine your customer acquisition is just doing dope collabs with other dope brands.
Everything they touch is gold.
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A look at KITH’s newest store in Beverly Hills 🌴☀️
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An underrated city for fashion, music, art, and culture, in general, is Montreal (the SSENSE hq fwiw).
So much good shit coming out of Montreal right now.
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It's just so fucking good.
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Some of the best street-style photography on the internet belongs to .
The way he captures depth and detail of style is phenomenal, and the content he photographed at Pitti in Florence this month is a perfect example.
Some of my favorite shots 👇
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French cycling brand Pas Normal teasing out a collab with Salomon (also a French brand) is pretty dope.
Cycling sneaker? 👀
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Morning ❄️
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Nelson Mandela wearing Yankees gear is just about the hardest thing on the internet imo
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Is there another SoundCloud type product rn that’s great for remix discovery?
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Apple's clothing line in 1986 is legit future vintage, before that was even a thing.
Here are some of my favorite pieces from *that* collection 👇 🍎
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These joints look like overpriced Allbirds from this angle
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Nelson Mandela wearing Yankees gear is just about the hardest thing on the internet imo
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Everyone who tells you streetwear is dying isn’t paying attention to what is building with Atlanta Streetwear Market.
Forget the commoditization of streetwear; this is where it’s happening.
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Making good content is about consistency and quality.
I’m not worried about others copying my stuff because I’m going to stick it out beyond what’s trendy.
Gradually, then suddenly.
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The return of blogging, independent, writing, and the rise of newsletters feels like Tumblr and WordPress days all over again.
And I love it.
Not saying big media companies are bad, but people appreciate independent POVs to curate the noise.
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I don’t condone this! But c’mon.
You can’t tell me that’s not a vibe.
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Athletes smoking and drinking after games is still one of the coolest things to me.
Similar to wearing jewelry while playing, it’s retro in the best of ways.
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The Presidential ticket we need but don’t deserve tbh
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Dual Income, No Kids: Meet Chris Black And Jason Stewart — matchesfashion.com/stories/2023/0 via @MATCHESFASHION #MFCuratedBy
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My doodles from today’s article on Drake’s and how they absolutely nail silhouette + shape with their clothing
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...reminding you that you can dress up again and actually be fun.
That's all I got.
If you dig this type of stuff, check out my newsletter Sprezza, where I write weekly.
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Mostly, I appreciate how Drake’s has created this world around their brand and products without isolating itself as another “tailoring company on Savile Row.”
They have a connection and mutual respect to other areas of menswear, weaving these aesthetics into their own tradition.
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The creative direction and styling is vibrant, quirky, fun, and inviting.
It's aspirational and attainable, which differs from how aspiration feels with most luxury brands.
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The creative direction and styling is vibrant, quirky, fun, and inviting.
It's aspirational and attainable, which differs from how aspiration feels with most luxury brands.
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Some indicators that they understand shape and fit.
• Neapolitan, soft) shoulders (like it blends with the skin)
• Outerwear angles away from body
• Gradual taper in the pant with no break
• Leg length is perfect for loafers, boots, etc
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3/ SILHOUETTES
Going back to the Brooks example, silhouettes are everything to me.
How things fit makes or breaks what you wear.
Drake's nails this.
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Flannel with a chore coat?
Puffer vest and a tie?
Cricket sweater with denim?
This is what cohesion looks like.
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2/ COHESION
If you were blindfolded, walked into one of Drake's stores, and picked five random pieces, they'd likely all work together.
Idk if there's a term for that, but that's how Drake's is designed.
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It’s worth noting:
The balance of color and fit/shape is important to get right if you’re going to go bold, especially if the color is going to be anything other than accessories (knit cap, scarf, socks).
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It draws your eye to it in a playful way without making it the outfit's focal point.
Here are a few other examples of color at play.
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Here’s a quick comparison.
Take this photo from Brooks Brothers FW22 on the left, with Drake’s on the right.
Brooks is forcing the color into the fit (plus the fitting is all wrong, which we’ll get into later).
But with Drake’s, the color placement is subtle.
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1/ COLOR
Where it feels cheesy for most brands to inject pops of color loudly, Drake's does it effortlessly.
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Here’s how they’re doing it—
1. Color and playfulness
2. Cohesion across collections
3. Understanding silhouettes and shapes
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But we’re hitting a new inflection point where dressing up is fun again—dare I say a vibe shift—and I’m excited about that.
And I think Drake’s is a big part of this resurgence.
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But suiting and dressier clothing is part of the DNA in many American sportswear brands (hello, Brooks, Ralph, J.Crew, Todd Snyder).
And many haven't done a good job (lately) integrating casual sportswear w/ dressing up compellingly.
(J.Crew is doing a better job w/ Brendon).
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A few thoughts first:
The shift to athleisure, streetwear, and the diminishing need to be in an office changed how we dress.
Suits were once *the* default signifier for status and taste, but that's no longer the case.
# Menswear was the last straw.
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