contributing writer @wearemel, @ringer, & @splicetoday. seen in @theatlantic, @parisreview, &c. repped by @inkwellmgmt. co-host of @whatisleftpod 
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For many people, a restrictive diet, fast, or "cure" is undertaken for the purpose of being seen...more as a cure for bourgeois despair than any true illness. In the absence of kashruth rooted in religion and culture, folks will "buy" some guru's fad version of dietary orthopraxy
A world in which all foods are available, from mass produced garbage to artisanal bespoke brunches, is a bewildering world that causes many to feel despair at their dietary rootlessness. And so they cast about for some light out of the dim, some paleo/vegan/etc. path to truth
Many reasons are invented for these diets, from saving the planet by reducing meat consumption to boosting protein intake for training (few people, me included, are training for any event of genuine importance), but even if true or truthy are for the holder an article of faith
Of course, the poorest and worst-off among us -- particularly those who have been completely uprooted from any kind of cultural underpinning, adrift in an impoverished Right Now, perhaps totally alone -- merely eat whatever is at hand, to survive, and this exacts its own toll
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