2/ One week after the initial spraying w 2,4-D / 3,6-D, and the poison ivy is looking very weakened and yellow, but the grass looks bright and green. This chemical is the bomb.pic.twitter.com/wRt16YYTYB
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2/ One week after the initial spraying w 2,4-D / 3,6-D, and the poison ivy is looking very weakened and yellow, but the grass looks bright and green. This chemical is the bomb.pic.twitter.com/wRt16YYTYB
3/ I don't have the ability to irrigate 1.5 acres of road pasture and 1.5 acres of cross pasture, so I'm not going to overseed pasture grasses to fill in the bare spots during the summer ... but I think I will likely see in October or so, and let fall rains and winter snow do it
5/ this map shows trees on a 15' grid ; if this actually works in practice (I'm not 100% sure that the left / west boundary is accurate ; that might be placing trees on a 45 degree slope in shade), then up to 50 treespic.twitter.com/H1ICdXYDRP
8/ It's a multi-year process. The first year inject every single (EVERY. SINGLE.) knotweed cane with concentrated glyphosate (Roundup) between the first and second nodal ridges. This kills the knotweed; it turns brown or black Also kills 98% of root >https://twitter.com/Ecolocation_san/status/1406638022012162051 …
9/ but 98% isn't 100%. The next year I come back and wait for baby knotweed to grow up from the sections of root that didn't die. I dig these up with a pick, try to get as much root as possible, and throw it in a dumpster. Third year I do the same. In the 4th year I rototill
10/ At this point the knotweed is 99.99% gone, but small little stragglers spring up here and there. Because I tilled, the few surviving pieces of root are small and in loose friable soil; quite easy to watch for knotweed and then weed by hand.
11/ oh, and let me add that one does not EVER EVER EVER compost the knotweed throw that !@# in a dumpster, or burn it
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