Our brands have also pushed suppliers to make our clothes more quickly. Lead times fell by 8.14% (2011-15). This rush incentivises manufacturers to 'sweat' existing workers: forced overtime. [They could recruit more workers, but this is risky, given short-term contracts]
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How has this impacted young, female Bangladeshi garment workers? Since 2013, their real wages have fallen by 6.47%. Violations of their rights to form unions, bargain, & strike increased by 12%.http://www.sacw.net/article13694.html …
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But... there is some good news. After Rana Plaza, some (mostly European, not US) buyers committed to the
@banglaccord. Supporting rigorous building inspections, Strengthening workers' representation & voice, Committing to binding arbitration. --> major improvements in safety1 reply 1 retweet 4 likesShow this thread -
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@banglaccord's goal is to ensure that all 1,600 factories of its signatory brands are safe for their 2.5+ million employees.1 reply 1 retweet 3 likesShow this thread -
Having identified fire, structural & electrical safety risks,
@banglaccord has terminated 96 factories for failing to implement required safety renovations. So these factories can no longer supply to any Accord signatory brand. This helps prevent another Rana Plaza.2 replies 1 retweet 3 likesShow this thread -
4 key points about
@banglaccord: - Strengthening industrial democracy: worker representation - Rigorous inspections - Well-resourced: $11m per yr, to pay its 94 specialized engineers & other staff - Binding arbitration, enabling worker compensation, eg:http://www.dw.com/en/unions-hail-deal-to-pay-out-for-worker-safety-in-bangladesh-garment-sector/a-42272553 …1 reply 4 retweets 6 likesShow this thread -
So it is excellent that many brands have signed up to
@banglaccord But many have not. Really disappointing that Sainburys & M&S are not committing to workers' safety in Bangladesh. US firms are also absent. Risking another Rana Plaza.https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/brands-like-m-s-next-urged-to-sign-the-bangladesh-safety-accord/2018022228311 …1 reply 2 retweets 9 likesShow this thread -
While
@banglaccord is improving safety, wages are still falling This is partly caused by procurement practices: - Racing to the bottom, then cutting loose - Sourcing from authoritarian countries, quashing the autonomous worker orgs mobilising for better pay, conditions & rights1 reply 1 retweet 2 likesShow this thread -
BUT Despite price squeezes, some Asian governments have managed to raise minimum wages & improve compliance in garment factories. Garment workers in Vietnam earn more than counterparts in Bangladesh. Why? **CLIFF HANGER** [gotta go on a run but that's our forthcoming paper]
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Replying to @_alice_evans
To what extent are the problems that caused Rana Plaza generic problems of international supply chains, or problems of Bangladesh (...meets international supply chains) ? The primary issue here is building safety. Why the jump straight to price pressures & lead times?
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i.e. How do BG specific factors e.g. BGMEA closed shop in manufacturing, & role in politics, barriers to inward investment & consolidation, financial sector, undercapitalised factories, infrastructure gaps, role of corruption in building inspection etc...interact w intl dynamics?
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Replying to @MForstater
Hi Maya, Right, Rana Plaza problems are caused by both domestic and international factors. The above thread focuses on buyers' practices, as it summarises Mark Anner's paper. But my own current research looks at exactly the domestic pol-econ causes you identify.
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