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MForstater's profile
Maya Forstater
Maya Forstater
Maya Forstater
@MForstater

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Maya Forstater

@MForstater

Business and sustainable development. Accountability. Tax. Feminist test case. Media: Tom Gardner at Slater & Gordon 0207 657 1690 press@slatergordon.co.uk

https://medium.com/@MForstater
hiyamaya.net
Joined September 2008

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    1. Alice Evans‏ @_alice_evans 26 Mar 2018
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      Our brands have also pushed suppliers to make our clothes more quickly. Lead times fell by 8.14% (2011-15). This rush incentivises manufacturers to 'sweat' existing workers: forced overtime. [They could recruit more workers, but this is risky, given short-term contracts]

      1 reply 1 retweet 2 likes
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    2. Alice Evans‏ @_alice_evans 26 Mar 2018
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      How has this impacted young, female Bangladeshi garment workers? Since 2013, their real wages have fallen by 6.47%. Violations of their rights to form unions, bargain, & strike increased by 12%.http://www.sacw.net/article13694.html …

      1 reply 1 retweet 3 likes
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    3. Alice Evans‏ @_alice_evans 26 Mar 2018
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      But... there is some good news. After Rana Plaza, some (mostly European, not US) buyers committed to the @banglaccord. Supporting rigorous building inspections, Strengthening workers' representation & voice, Committing to binding arbitration. --> major improvements in safety

      1 reply 1 retweet 4 likes
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    4. Alice Evans‏ @_alice_evans 26 Mar 2018
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      .@banglaccord's goal is to ensure that all 1,600 factories of its signatory brands are safe for their 2.5+ million employees.

      1 reply 1 retweet 3 likes
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    5. Alice Evans‏ @_alice_evans 26 Mar 2018
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      Having identified fire, structural & electrical safety risks, @banglaccord has terminated 96 factories for failing to implement required safety renovations. So these factories can no longer supply to any Accord signatory brand. This helps prevent another Rana Plaza.

      2 replies 1 retweet 3 likes
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    6. Alice Evans‏ @_alice_evans 26 Mar 2018
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      4 key points about @banglaccord: - Strengthening industrial democracy: worker representation - Rigorous inspections - Well-resourced: $11m per yr, to pay its 94 specialized engineers & other staff - Binding arbitration, enabling worker compensation, eg:http://www.dw.com/en/unions-hail-deal-to-pay-out-for-worker-safety-in-bangladesh-garment-sector/a-42272553 …

      1 reply 4 retweets 6 likes
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    7. Alice Evans‏ @_alice_evans 27 Mar 2018
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      So it is excellent that many brands have signed up to @banglaccord But many have not. Really disappointing that Sainburys & M&S are not committing to workers' safety in Bangladesh. US firms are also absent. Risking another Rana Plaza.https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/brands-like-m-s-next-urged-to-sign-the-bangladesh-safety-accord/2018022228311 …

      1 reply 2 retweets 9 likes
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    8. Alice Evans‏ @_alice_evans 27 Mar 2018
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      While @banglaccord is improving safety, wages are still falling This is partly caused by procurement practices: - Racing to the bottom, then cutting loose - Sourcing from authoritarian countries, quashing the autonomous worker orgs mobilising for better pay, conditions & rights

      1 reply 1 retweet 2 likes
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    9. Alice Evans‏ @_alice_evans 27 Mar 2018
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      BUT Despite price squeezes, some Asian governments have managed to raise minimum wages & improve compliance in garment factories. Garment workers in Vietnam earn more than counterparts in Bangladesh. Why? **CLIFF HANGER** [gotta go on a run but that's our forthcoming paper]

      4 replies 0 retweets 9 likes
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    10. Maya Forstater‏ @MForstater 27 Mar 2018
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      Replying to @_alice_evans

      To what extent are the problems that caused Rana Plaza generic problems of international supply chains, or problems of Bangladesh (...meets international supply chains) ? The primary issue here is building safety. Why the jump straight to price pressures & lead times?

      2 replies 0 retweets 1 like
      Maya Forstater‏ @MForstater 27 Mar 2018
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      Replying to @MForstater @_alice_evans

      i.e. How do BG specific factors e.g. BGMEA closed shop in manufacturing, & role in politics, barriers to inward investment & consolidation, financial sector, undercapitalised factories, infrastructure gaps, role of corruption in building inspection etc...interact w intl dynamics?

      1:58 AM - 27 Mar 2018
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      • Alice Evans
      1 reply 0 retweets 1 like
        1. Alice Evans‏ @_alice_evans 27 Mar 2018
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          Replying to @MForstater

          Hi Maya, Right, Rana Plaza problems are caused by both domestic and international factors. The above thread focuses on buyers' practices, as it summarises Mark Anner's paper. But my own current research looks at exactly the domestic pol-econ causes you identify.

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