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THIS is the truth surfing is this for me. On top of being physically exhausted - the ocean will drown you in you start getting lazy or underestimating her
Never surfed but I can only imagine the feeling of gliding through the waves. It must be spiritual AF?
that part is spiritual & makes it worth it but honestly Hk surf is full of life principles having to fight waves, getting knocked down, pushed under water for XX seconds, just to get out to the breaks/have the CHANCE at catching a wave big lesson in work first, play later
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