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pyramus

  1. Montale Chypre Vanille: not really a chypre, but dense and rich, dark and lustrous, not your average sweet vanilla at all.
  2. Clinique Wrappings. Hypnotically strange and fascinating. Explosively green with leathery chypre undercurrents. Hard to find. Essential.
  3. Montale Chocolate Greedy. I dunno. Not as chocolaty as you'd think from the name: there seems to be tobacco in there, and a bit of latrine.
  4. Chanel Coromandel: the abstract, foodless idea of a gourmand scent, layered atop frankincense and patchouli. Spicy, dusty, magisterial.
  5. L'Artisan Dzing! Odd, baffling, almost bizarre, yet perversely beautiful. Sawdusty wood, caramel, and lovely dirty patchouli. Intoxicating.
  6. Etat Libre D'Orange Rossy de Palma. Some days you feel rosy, and if you don't want to smell pretty, this is the way to go. Dark and intense.
  7. Demeter Tiramisu. Coffee and pastry and cream and vanilla. Demeter flubbed some of their dessert scents, but they got this one just right.
  8. Gendarme Excess. Hyper-sexy gourmand oriental. Gone but not forgotten, at least not by me.
  9. Demeter Fiery Curry. Much milder and more soothing than it sounds, and not especially foody; a warm blanket of spices. Simple but so good.
  10. Demeter Waffle Cone: dark, buttery, vanilla-drenched bakery goods. Gorgeous. Makes you want to nibble yourself.
  11. Lacoste Pour Homme: fun, but so sophisticated at the same time. One of my favourite mass-market scents of the last ten years or so.
  12. Demeter Earl Grey Tea: not very accurate at all, to say the least, but bright and zippy, and I was in the mood for it.
  13. Demeter Condensed Milk, a soothing, milky-sweet thing with a hint of caramel. Not perfectly accurate, but near enough, and quite nice.
  14. YSL Yvresse: some days you don't want a full-bore chypre but something subtler, and Yvresse is just the ticket, a rosier, softer Mitsouko.
  15. CSP Vanille Cafe. Colder weather is setting in, and what could warm you up better than a creamy, bitter-sweet, vanilla-laced cup of coffee?
  16. Ungaro Diva: vintage '80s, unfashionably big oakmossy chypre, kinda dirty-skanky, pure bedroom. Unpresentable. Strictly to wear in private.
  17. Demeter Russian Leather: dark, sweet, floral, burnished leather, simple and beautiful.
  18. Tom Ford Black Orchid: compote and butch hothouse flowers on top of the thickest, most luscious vanilla ever. It wears you. You don't care.
  19. Safran Troublant by L'Artisan Parfumeur. Vanilla, saffron, rose: so simple, yet absolutely perfect, a little jewel of a scent. Happy-making.
  20. Comme des Garcons Carnation, for days when nothing will do but a wallop of spicy, in-your-face hypercarnation. This is one of those days.